The Art of Madeleine Vionnet

The Art of Madeleine Vionnet

Vionnet never achieved the fame of Coco Chanel but she was as influential to fashion as the latter…

This French designer opened her fashion house in 1912 making the halter neck, cow neck and the
bias cut her signatures. As the legend goes: Madeleine Vionnet invented the bias cut making form fitted luxurious gowns a “must have” staple of the 1930s.

“Using her technique, the bias cut–which she protected from imitations with a copyright and documents of authenticity–designers were able to produce magnificent gowns in satins, crepe-de-chines, silks, crepes and chiffons by cross cutting the fabric, creating a flare and fluidity of drapery that other methods could not achieve. Many of the gowns could be slipped over the head and came alive when put on the human form. Some evening garments made women look like Grecian goddesses whilst others made them look like half naked sexy vamps.”

She liberated the female body from corsets, padding, constraints and unflattering shapes making women’s personalities, and their wellbeing the fashion focal point. The garments embraced the female form with a fluid, natural, sophisticated yet sensual movement.

Today we celebrate Madeleine Vionnet

Cruz the Muse

Francesca Cruz
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